Sam Roi Yod

 

Sam Roi Yod Beach shack

There is no Paradise on Earth, as folk are fond of saying.

And even in Sam Roi Yod, there are things to complain about. In the first beach shack we settle down in, the owner bemoans the villa that is being constructed across the track from him, right on the beach itself. It is true, that part of his view between the palm trees across beach and the glittering Bay of Thailand beyond, is now obscured by a pile of breeze blocks and girders. We sip Chang and knit our brows in sympathy.

Across the way, massage ladies are waving to my companion. “Madame you want Thai massage?”. Tourists, especially European females, are often seen lain on the beach massage tables receiving the treatment as they stare across the blue bay.

Mai, kap khun ka. Lazer-beam Thai grins… “Maybe tomorrow?”… “Yea maybe” Who knows?

Who knows what will happen tomorrow in Sam Roi Yod?

Sam Roi Yod Beach: Coconut palms

Actually everyone here can tell you that with considerable certainty and confidence.

Tomorrow in Sam Roi Yod there will be 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of night-time. The daytime temperature will reach around 35oC. Twice, the waveless tide, looking like a trillion tonnes of blue hair gel, will advance up the magnolia coloured sand towards the coconut trees, whose tousled fronds the breeze will ruffle. It will then recede, exposing the scent of seaweed, salt and catworms to the whispering air. On the white pickets that surround some of the villas, bee-eaters the colours of the maddest of circus clowns will catch wasps and hornets. But the beach diners’ lunch will pack just as sharp a sting.

Bee-eaters

At 11:30 in one of the best restaurants on Earth – nameless, menu-less, palm-roofed, sand-floored and free of electricity and mains drainage – brown fingers will flick a cigarette lighter at the bottom of a half-oildrum. Thirty minutes later the first marinated pork-belly satay will be slammed onto the grill as lip-licking clients begin to occupy the bizarre furniture strewn on the uneven, shaded ground. As the odours of grilled meat waft across the beach, ownerless, sandy-coloured beach dogs with sand-filled pelts will raise their noses to the breeze and peer at the expectant diners out of deep camouflage. Freezing cold beer will change hands. Tepid sticky rice in individual plastic bag servings will be dumped on tables. Ferociously spicy papaya salad topped with crushed peanut, squeezed lime and chopped coriander will be doled out… lunch will be served. No bank, no tycoon, hedgefund nor oligarch could ever buy that view… just for lunchtime, it is all theirs.

Sam Roi Yod Beach: Beach Restaurant

That’s what will happen tomorrow on Sam Roi Yod beach… and like Paradise, it is practically impossible to get to… but well worth the effort.

Next post, how to recreate a Som Roi Yod barbecue.

Sam Roi Yod Beach. Pork belly satay…